TOPIC: Winterizing

i have used STAR TRON (blue bottle w/enzyme on label). add to tank, go for a ride to circulate through system (and because it's fun to go for a ride). i make sure to top off tank. i have never drained carbs or run carbs dry. never had an issue doing it this way and have used with carbs and fuel injection on bikes, trucks and mowers and blowers etc. i also change oils and filter and plug up the exhaust to keep the rodents out. clean bike and keep battery on smart charger. if possible put bike on jack to keep tires from developing flat spots - don't know how important this is since bikes sit at dealers and storage units on their tires. i put the commando on center stand and occasionally turn the front tire. Works for me. i usually store from early December until mid March or when roads clear. Hope this helps - did i forget anything ??? oh yah adjust and lube chain.

Thanks! I'll do the same with the gas. Oil change and chain lube will be in the spring as the Norton oil slowly drains down to the crankcase if left idle for a few months. I use the center stand. Battery has been on a battery tender and I keep a close watch for rodents in my garage. They have been in my shed, but the bike does not hibernate there. Its always a battle with those pesky critters. Thanks again, Bill

Winterizing was a topic of discussion at the nov2016 meeting (check newsletter).
Now I have much experience with E-10 damage from my chainsaw/2 stroke hobby,
These are like the machinery version of the canary in the mines of olden days...
Even in the stabilizer industry literature you can "read between the lines" that stabilizers have one goal only....to keep the fuel usable as a fuel. They do NOT prevent damage from E-10. That is the primary reason people have given me well over 30 chainsaws, 15 weed wackers and a dozen or more leaf blower. Almost all of them died from plastic, rubber E-10 damage or zinc/pot metal corrosion, or actual engine mechanical damage due to expired fuel condition. ie burnt pistons rings cylinders.

Oil should always be changed and run for a few minutes prior to storage. It removes the acidic oil which etches the metal parts during long inactive periods.

yes i agree with Dave on the acid etching - that's why i change fluids at end of season. on the other hand i know lots of guys who never have and think i'm nuts for bothering. but really oil changes are so easy -even i can do them - so why take a chance on allowing possible internal damage. STAR TRON (added by pesky moderator: StarTron Enzyme Fuel 143 or 840 series) was discussed and recommended by Dave and a few others (including me) at the November 2016 meeting

I also have been using Stabil for decades.
Also 3 oz. of two stroke oil coats the tanks interior, and combats corrosion (from ethanol fuel) in the carbs. Great results observed.

My 2 cents worth. I drain the oil, and gas. I drain the carb float bowls, there is always some fuel left in the bowl even when you run it with the petcock off. I use marine fogging oil in the tank, spray some up the float bowl and into each cylinder. probably overkill. My shop rarely goes below 40 degrees so I am lucky in that sense.